Car Battery Care
From The Family Handyman
In addition to a set of wrenches, you’ll only need a post cleaner or side terminal ($4), a hydrometer ($6) and a cable puller ($4), all available at auto parts stores. Keep in mind that you can skip the battery service if you make sure the mechanic does it during periodic servicing, but you’ll want to keep up with the regular maintenance.
Battery Hygiene
Step 1: Clean The Cables
First clean the top of the battery and any corrosion from the cables using a tablespoon of baking soda, a cup of water and a nonmetallic brush. Flush with cool water. Now disconnect the cables, starting with the negative one to prevent your wrenches from arcing on a nearby ground. Loosen the battery cable clamp bolts and gently give them a twist. Use a cable puller if they’re stuck. Never pry on the battery posts. If you have a side post terminal (not shown), use a 5/16-in. box wrench to loosen the cables. With the cables removed, further clean off the corrosion around the battery terminals and cables with a post cleaner.
Step 2: Check The Level Of The Electrolyte
Gently pry off the covers of the battery cells. (If you have a no-maintenance sealed battery, see facing page.) The water and acid mixture in the battery (electrolyte) should be about 1/2 in. deep or to the bottom of the fill hole. If it needs water, use clean distilled water, being careful not to overfill the cells, and then inspect the battery case for cracks. If you find a crack, replace the battery. If you added water, let the water mix with the electrolyte for a few hours before the next step. (You may need to reconnect the battery to maintain your memory functions.)
Step 3: Check The Condition And Charge Of The Battery
Test the electrolyte in each cell. Squeeze the ball and draw the solution into the tester. Carefully hold the tester level and write down the reading. Squirt the solution back into the same cell. The testers are calibrated assuming a battery is at 80 degrees F. Add .04 to each reading for every 10 degrees above 80 and subtract .04 for every 10 degrees below. If you get a cell reading that differs from the others by .05 or more, replace the battery. A fully charged battery should have a reading of 1.265 or higher. If all the readings show fair or low (1.200 is low) but are consistent, recharge the battery.
Memory saver
If you have preset radio stations or other memory functions in your car and want to keep them, go to your auto parts store and get a device like the one shown and a fresh 9-volt battery. Plug this into your cigarette lighter before you disconnect the cables. This will give you about one hour to clean the cables and test the battery charge.
Drop in a New Battery
Step 4: Remove the cables
Remove your battery hold-down clamp. Disconnect the negative cable first, then the positive. Note: Always replace the battery with one that has a higher rating than the original.
Step 5: Replace The Battery
Tie a heavy-duty strap to the ears on the side of the battery and gently lift it out. Be careful; battery acid is dangerous. Don’t drop it. Once the battery is out, clean the battery tray and replace it if it’s badly corroded. Batteries are heavy and need solid support!
Step 6: Reinstall The Clamp And Cables
Carefully lift the new battery into place. Connect the hold-down clamp, then connect the cable to the positive terminal first and the negative last (for negative ground systems). Smear a little petroleum jelly onto the terminal before fastening the cable clamps to the posts. The grease will help slow corrosion. Most batteries are at least 75 percent charged when you buy them and should be ready for you to start your car and drive. Check with your supplier to see if your new battery needs charging before you use it.
A battery will not explode.
While spark retarding vent caps help, recharging a battery produces hydrogen and oxygen gasses. If a spark or flame occurs, an explosion will occur. Remember the “Hindenburg”!
Tags：Automobile car battery