Small business opportunity

Our timing belt is composed of closed round rubber, with teeth and attached
belt or pulley. When working, teeth and trough are in harmony and one
movement will cause transmission of teeth, chain, and belt. Our belts are
strong, and resistant to oil, heat, and aging.

We have over 30 kinds of belts
in 1,000 specifications including RPP-2M, RPP-3M, RPP-5M, RPP-8M, and
RPP-14M.

It’s belt driving the fan that cools the radiator of a car.

The name “fan belt” is a bit of a misnomer nowadays because the belt drives much more than just a fan. It is frequently called an accessory belt. The fan belt goes around a pulley attached to the flywheel and powers accessory pumps and motors such as the water pump, air conditioner compressor, alternator, power brakes, and the power steering pump. Some cars have one large serpentine belt that drives all of the accessory motors. Other cars divide the work more evenly by employing the use of two belts.

Regardless of whether your car uses one or two belts, you can change your fan belt with some time and a few simple tools that you already have around the house. Here’s how:

Routine inspection: You should inspect the belts every time you look under the hood. Look for cracks and frayed sections. If any part of the interior of the belt is cracked, or if any part of the cording in the belt is frayed, then you will need to replace it.

Belt Diagram: Your car has a diagram describing the path of the belt on your particular car. Before you take the belt off, check the diagram under the hood. It is usually on the plastic cover above the cooling fan. Follow the diagram exactly when removing the old belt and when installing the new belt. The diagram also displays where a special pulley, called the belt tensioner is located. You can adjust the tensioner to change how tight the belt is as it goes around the pulleys.

Take off the old belt: Take the old belt off of the pulleys. You will need a wrench or two to release the tension on the belt. Tension systems differ between makes, but the effect of each is still the same: They maintain a tight belt when in use, and they allow you to adjust the tension. In this case, you want to reduce the tension on the belt so that you can slide it off of the pulleys.

Get the right size replacement belt: You’ll need to get the right size replacement belt at any local auto parts store. It’s very important to match the new belt shape with the old one. Take the old belt with you to the store to compare with the new belt. Sometimes the new belt is a little bit different length. If the new belt is a centimeter or so short, then that is OK. It will likely stretch out a little bit. If the new belt is a little too long, ask the salesperson to help you find a closer match. A longer belt isn’t acceptable.

Install the new belt: Route the new belt through the pulleys so that it uses the exact same path as the old belt. You may need to loosen the belt tensioner a little bit more in order to slip the new belt onto the final pulley. Refer to the belt diagram to check your work. After the belt is in place, tighten the belt using the tension adjuster on your car.

Helpful tips:

The belt should be taut, and should not squeal when the engine is running. To determine if the belt is tight enough, remove anything that could get caught in moving parts and turn on the engine. Turn on the air conditioner. If the belt doesn’t squeal, then the belt is probably tight enough.

When you tighten the belt, be careful not to get it too tight. A belt that is too tight will put too much stress on all of the pulleys in the system and will cause one to fail over time.

Sometimes the belt will begin to squeal a few days after installation. This is because the belt sometimes stretches a little. Simply tighten the belt a little at a time at the tension adjuster.

Battery buying strategy for use in Canada, for example, is different than hot climates that you find in Texas. In the colder climates, higher CCA ratings are more important;

whereas, in a hot climate, a higher RC ratings are more important once the CCA rating has satisfied the OEM cranking amp requirement.

From The Family Handyman

In addition to a set of wrenches, you’ll only need a post cleaner or side terminal ($4), a hydrometer ($6) and a cable puller ($4), all available at auto parts stores. Keep in mind that you can skip the battery service if you make sure the mechanic does it during periodic servicing, but you’ll want to keep up with the regular maintenance.

Battery Hygiene

Step 1: Clean The Cables

First clean the top of the battery and any corrosion from the cables using a tablespoon of baking soda, a cup of water and a nonmetallic brush. Flush with cool water. Now disconnect the cables, starting with the negative one to prevent your wrenches from arcing on a nearby ground. Loosen the battery cable clamp bolts and gently give them a twist. Use a cable puller if they’re stuck. Never pry on the battery posts. If you have a side post terminal (not shown), use a 5/16-in. box wrench to loosen the cables. With the cables removed, further clean off the corrosion around the battery terminals and cables with a post cleaner.

Step 2: Check The Level Of The Electrolyte

Gently pry off the covers of the battery cells. (If you have a no-maintenance sealed battery, see facing page.) The water and acid mixture in the battery (electrolyte) should be about 1/2 in. deep or to the bottom of the fill hole. If it needs water, use clean distilled water, being careful not to overfill the cells, and then inspect the battery case for cracks. If you find a crack, replace the battery. If you added water, let the water mix with the electrolyte for a few hours before the next step. (You may need to reconnect the battery to maintain your memory functions.)

Step 3: Check The Condition And Charge Of The Battery

Test the electrolyte in each cell. Squeeze the ball and draw the solution into the tester. Carefully hold the tester level and write down the reading. Squirt the solution back into the same cell. The testers are calibrated assuming a battery is at 80 degrees F. Add .04 to each reading for every 10 degrees above 80 and subtract .04 for every 10 degrees below. If you get a cell reading that differs from the others by .05 or more, replace the battery. A fully charged battery should have a reading of 1.265 or higher. If all the readings show fair or low (1.200 is low) but are consistent, recharge the battery.

Memory saver

If you have preset radio stations or other memory functions in your car and want to keep them, go to your auto parts store and get a device like the one shown and a fresh 9-volt battery. Plug this into your cigarette lighter before you disconnect the cables. This will give you about one hour to clean the cables and test the battery charge.

Drop in a New Battery

Step 4: Remove the cables

Remove your battery hold-down clamp. Disconnect the negative cable first, then the positive. Note: Always replace the battery with one that has a higher rating than the original.

Step 5: Replace The Battery

Tie a heavy-duty strap to the ears on the side of the battery and gently lift it out. Be careful; battery acid is dangerous. Don’t drop it. Once the battery is out, clean the battery tray and replace it if it’s badly corroded. Batteries are heavy and need solid support!

Step 6: Reinstall The Clamp And Cables

Carefully lift the new battery into place. Connect the hold-down clamp, then connect the cable to the positive terminal first and the negative last (for negative ground systems). Smear a little petroleum jelly onto the terminal before fastening the cable clamps to the posts. The grease will help slow corrosion. Most batteries are at least 75 percent charged when you buy them and should be ready for you to start your car and drive. Check with your supplier to see if your new battery needs charging before you use it.

A battery will not explode.

While spark retarding vent caps help, recharging a battery produces hydrogen and oxygen gasses. If a spark or flame occurs, an explosion will occur. Remember the “Hindenburg”!

Accentuate the positive; disconnect the negative 1 Check the battery

Before you plunk down the money for a new battery, make sure you’ve covered all the other possible options. Start with looks. If the of the battery has cracks in it, you need a replacement.

Next, check the battery terminals, which are the positive and negative knobs that the wires leading to the alternator are bolted onto. Older batteries can produce a sulfate build-up (a whitish-looking residue) that corrodes the terminals and leads to a bad connection. Sometimes a gentle tap with a hammer on the terminals will break away the residue and solve the problem. Or you can scrub them with a pasty mix of baking soda and water using a wire brush or an old toothbrush.

If everything looks fine but you’ve had to jump-start the car more than once, the problem may be that the car wasn’t driven long enough to properly recharge the battery. About 30 minutes of constant driving should do it.

Note: When you drive, keep all unnecessary electric equipment off (such as the radio, the air conditioner or heater and, if possible, the headlights and windshield wipers).

Your car recharges the battery through the alternator, which supplies and distributes electricity after the car is started (when you start the car, you’re using only the battery). The alternator gets its energy from the movement of the actual engine via the alternator belt. If your battery still isn’t charged from extended driving, the alternator belt might be loose. Different car models require different belt tensions, so have it checked by a professional.

Another culprit could be the weather. Extreme cold or heat can affect battery performance–especially cold, which can freeze the electrolyte solution inside. If your battery has removable vent caps (located on the ), remove them and look inside to see if this is the problem (remember to always replace the caps tightly). If the solution is frozen, you’ll have to wait for the weather to warm up, or tow the car into an enclosed area.

Finally, your battery might simply be old and ready to retire. If this is the case, go to your auto supply store and buy a quality model that’s right for your car and climate (some types are better for hot climates; others are better for cold–consult the merchant).

The last thing you need is a car that won’t start because the battery is dead. You can avoid that expensive service or tow charge (and the worry of being stranded!) by carrying out a 10-minute seasonal battery check along with a few maintenance tips.

2 Remove the battery

Once you have the new battery, it’s time to remove the old one. Make sure your car is turned off, then scrub the of the old battery with the baking soda/water mixture and the brush. This will cut down on the possibility of acid problems.

With your wrench, loosen the bolt that holds the negative (-) cable clamp (connected to the negative terminal) and slide the cable clamp off the terminal. Remove the positive (+) cable the same way.

Note: If your cables are unmarked, you may want to mark them as positive and negative before removal to help you remember which is which. Connecting cables incorrectly can damage or destroy the car’s entire electric system.

Next, unscrew the bracket or clamp that holds the battery in the battery tray. You can sometimes do this with your fingers. If not, use your wrench.

Get a good grip on the battery and remove it from the car. Remember, it’s heavy. Once the battery is out, clean the terminal clamps and the battery tray with the baking soda solution (wait for these areas to dry before replacing the battery). However, if the clamps and tray are severely corroded, you’ll want to have them replaced by a mechanic.

3 Replace the battery

To put in the new battery, place it in the tray with the positive and negative terminals on the correct sides. Screw on the bracket so the battery is held firmly in place. Place the positive cable clamp over the positive terminal, and tighten the bolt. Connect the negative cable and terminal the same way. Once they’re both connected, you can close the hood and start the car.

Since the old battery contains highly toxic material, you must dispose of it properly. Do not treat it like regular garbage. You can dispose of the battery at service garages, auto supply stores (they may offer this service as part of your new battery purchase), and recycling centers. You might be charged a small fee for the service, but it’s well worth it.

Once you’re finished, drive easy. With the proper maintenance, your car will be using its new battery for years to come.

Installing a car battery is a simple task that can be performed by anyone who is strong enough to lift the battery into place. Car batteries generally weigh around 40 pounds, depending on battery size. Installing your own battery can save you both time and money. Though many places offer free battery installation when you buy from their in-stock selection, the process is not always quicker than simply doing it yourself.

You’ll need a new battery, combination wrench, flat screwdriver and wire brush or steel wool.

Turn the engine off and pop the hood. Find your battery and the two battery cables attached to the battery. One cable is red and the other cable is black.

If you don’t mind losing your radio station presets, it is probably a good idea to remove the negative battery cable before working under the hood at all.

IMPORTANT - Use the combination wrench to loosen the nuts holding the battery cable to the negative post first! Otherwise, you might short the positive terminal or cable to ground with a wrench which could ruin a perfectly good wrench or screwdriver, and create a shower of sparks.

Then loosen and remove the nuts holding the battery cable to the positive post.

Remove the battery clamp.

With both hands, lift up on the handle attached to the battery. Be careful because the battery is very heavy, and you do not want to damage your car or hurt yourself.

Clean out the battery tray. Use the wire brush or steel wool to clean any corrosion off of the metal clamps that attach to the battery terminals. If they are badly corroded, you’ll need to have them replaced.

Place the new battery into the tray and reattach the battery clamps and both battery cables.

Reattach the cables to the new battery. Remember that the cables are color-coordinated. Attach the red cable to the positive terminal and the black cable to the negative terminal, and tighten the nuts. The nuts are tight enough when the cables cannot move if you try to wiggle them by hand.

Take the old battery back to where you bought the new battery for proper disposal.

others

How to install three auto amplifies in my car?

If your total system power is more than 1000 watts RMS you will need to:

1. Upgrade the alternator to a high output alternator
2. Upgrade to a heavy duty deep cycle battery
3. Upgrade the “Big 3″ - that is to replace the power wire between the battery and alternator, the ground from the battery to the chassis and the ground strap from the engine/tranny to the chassis with at least 1/0 AWG wire.

Failure to do this will result in you replacing them anyway as the alternator will eventually fail.

Tips:

Keep up with your battery’s warranty information in case your battery doesn’t last as long as it should.

Most places charge what is called a “core charge” when you buy a new battery. Since batteries contain lead, they must be disposed of properly. Simply keep your receipt and return your old battery to the store where you bought the new one to get the core charge refunded to you.

Clamps that attach to battery terminals are usually ½ inch, so try a ½ inch combination wrench first.

Be careful to keep from getting any battery acid on you or on your clothes. Car batteries contain sulfuric acid which can cause severe burns and can damage your clothes.